Tech Tips - Pro Builder Gel Application Tips
TWENTY’s Head of Education, Lauren Jones, shares her top pro tips for perfecting builder gel application for newbie techs
Applying builder gel flawlessly takes practice, patience, and the right techniques. Whether you’re a brand new tech or you’ve just added builder gel to your existing services, these tips will help you refine your application for strong, structured, and long-lasting nails.
1. Prep is Everything – Get It Right!
A flawless builder gel application starts with perfect prep. Make sure to:
✔️ Remove cuticle from the nail plate thoroughly.
✔️ Dehydrate the nail to eliminate oils and moisture.
✔️ Use a primer and base coat for maximum adhesion for clients with weak, thin nails and those prone to lifting
2. Consider E-File Training for Faster, More Effective Prep
If you're not e-file trained, it’s worth investing in a course. Using an e-file for cuticle work and surface refinement speeds up prep and creates a pristine nail canvas for builder gel application, leading to better retention and fewer issues down the line.
3. Control Your Product – Avoid Overloading Your Brush
Too much product = a bulky, uneven overlay. Instead of picking up too much builder gel directly from the bottle, decant a small amount onto a palette and use a round gel brush for better control. This helps you apply just the right amount without excess thickness.
4. Use a Liner Brush – Your Secret Weapon
A liner brush is a game-changer for builder gel application! Use it to:
✔️ Fill in any gaps in the overlay.
✔️ Perfect the structure and apex without flooding the nail.
✔️ Ensure smooth, even product placement without excess bulk.
5. Flip the Hand Upside Down to Form a Natural Apex
For a strong, balanced structure, have your client turn their hand upside down for a few seconds before curing. This encourages the gel to self-level into a natural apex, giving the nail the perfect shape without adding bulk.
6. Refine the Overlay for a Smooth Finish
If you're new to builder gel, achieving a perfectly smooth application might take time. Don't stress! If needed, refine your overlay after curing to perfect the shape. A well-structured nail ensures longevity and prevents lifting. With practice, your application will become so smooth that filing won’t be necessary—but until then, refining is your best friend!
7. File the Free Edge After Application for a Crisp Finish
This might seem counterintuitive, but lightly filing the free edge after applying and curing builder gel removes any bumps or inconsistencies and helps prevent lifting. A crisp edge makes all the difference in the final look.
With these pro techniques, your builder gel application will be smoother, more refined, and longer-lasting—keeping your clients coming back every time! 💅✨